POURLA FAQs

We currently ship within the United States only. International shipping is not available. Orders ship from our Irvine, California warehouse or a fulfillment center. See our Shipping Policy.

Standard shipping is free on all U.S. orders. Reshipment after an incorrect or incomplete address can involve additional charges. Those details are explained in our Shipping Policy.

Orders are processed within 1–3 business days. Transit is estimated at 2–7 business days after dispatch. Business days exclude weekends and U.S. federal holidays. See the Shipping Policy for details.

Once shipped, we'll email your tracking number. Visit Track Your Order for order and shipment information. If your shipping confirmation hasn't arrived within 3 business days of ordering, check spam or junk, then contact us.

Please contact us within 3 calendar days of delivery. Where safe to do so, email photos of the damaged items and packaging to pourlaepoxy@gmail.com, along with your order number. Our team will help under the Shipping Policy.

Contact us within 3 calendar days of the expected delivery date, with your order number and tracking information. We'll investigate with the carrier and arrange a replacement as quickly as possible. See our Shipping Policy.

Our standard return window is 30 days from delivery or pickup. Items must be unopened, unused, and in intact original packaging. Delivery damage and product quality issues are handled separately. Contact us for instructions before sending items back; see our Return & Refund Policy.

For standard returns, you pay return shipping. If your order shipped with free standard shipping, the original outbound shipping cost is not deducted from your refund. POURLA covers shipping costs for delivery damage or product quality issues. See our Return & Refund Policy.

For eligible returns, refunds are processed within 2 business days of our warehouse receiving the returned items. After the refund is issued, your bank or payment provider usually needs another 3–5 business days. Refund methods and details are in the Return & Refund Policy.

Contact us as soon as possible. Address changes cannot be guaranteed once processing begins. Standard orders can be canceled for a full refund before shipment is arranged. Later requests and custom orders follow the cancellation terms in our Return & Refund Policy.

Call +1 (209) 606-6068, email pourlaepoxy@gmail.com, or send us a message. Our hours are Monday–Friday, 9:00 AM–5:00 PM Pacific Time (PT). Messages sent after hours or over the weekend are picked up on the next business day.

Qualified contractors, resellers, and volume customers can apply through the Wholesale & Pro Program. Approved partners use the online portal for their account pricing and orders. Current eligibility and pricing are shown through the program.

Start with the product name, a short description, and photos. If you know them, add the order or lot number, mix ratio, temperature, pour thickness, and timeline. You're welcome to start a conversation even if you don't have every detail.

Use the individual product page and its available technical documents for ratio, coverage, thickness, working time, and cure. Browse Use Instructions and Safety Data Sheets, or send us the product name if you need help finding the right document.

POURLA offers art epoxy, deep-pour epoxy, countertop coatings, heat-resistant epoxy, concrete floor primers, floor top coats, polyaspartic coatings and selected protective coatings. Start with the job you need the material to do, then check the exact product limits before buying.

Use Art Epoxy for crafts and thin clear coatings, Deep-Pour Epoxy for thick castings, Countertop Epoxy for counters and bar tops, and a complete floor coating system for concrete. For higher-temperature projects, review the Ultra Heat-Resistant Epoxy page.

Art epoxy is intended for thinner pours and surface coatings. Deep-pour formulas are designed for deeper castings within their stated limits. Compare the product's thickness, volume, and temperature guidance before choosing.

Countertop epoxy is a surface coating. Casting epoxy is designed to fill depth and volume. Their viscosity, working time, pour limit and cure schedule are different, so use the formula built for the actual application.

Yes. A floor is normally a system: prepared concrete, repairs, moisture evaluation, primer, base coat, decorative broadcast if used, and a compatible clear top coat. Craft and casting resins are not substitutes for a floor system.

Yes. Send the surface, dimensions, target thickness, indoor or outdoor use, expected exposure, working temperature and project photos through the POURLA contact page. For floors, also include concrete condition, square footage, moisture concerns and the finish you want.

Use the coverage or volume guidance on the specific product page. Allow for surface porosity, uneven thickness, edges, cracks, material left in containers and normal application loss. The POURLA calculators can help with an initial estimate.

For a casting, calculate length × width × average thickness using matching units. For a coating, calculate square footage and use the product's stated coverage rate. Irregular edges and porous materials increase real consumption.

Measure the actual length and width; “two-car garage” is not a reliable quantity. Include steps, stem walls, repairs, primer, base coat, flakes and top coat. Use the Epoxy Floor Calculator for planning.

A small allowance is sensible for waste, porosity and uneven surfaces. Do not apply an extra-heavy layer just to use the full kit; stay within the product's coverage and thickness limits.

Epoxy bonds to the surface you give it. Dust, grease, wax, silicone, moisture, weak concrete and loose coatings can cause fisheyes, peeling or delamination even when the resin is mixed correctly.

Use clean, dry, sound wood. Remove wax, oil and sanding dust; sand as required; and seal porous or end-grain areas when appropriate. Test reclaimed or oily wood before coating the full project.

Remove contaminants, repair defects, mechanically profile the slab as required, evaluate moisture and vacuum all dust. Then use a compatible primer when the system calls for one. See the concrete floor primer guide for more detail.

Only when the existing coating is firmly bonded, clean, compatible and prepared for recoating. Do not bury peeling, soft, contaminated or unknown coatings. When the history is uncertain, test adhesion or remove the old coating.

Do not assume a slab is dry because the surface looks dry. Moisture vapor can cause bubbles, cloudiness and loss of adhesion. Evaluate the slab and use a system rated for the measured condition.

Often, yes. A compatible primer can improve wetting, adhesion and coating consistency while helping seal porous concrete. The correct primer depends on the slab and the full system; review the POURLA Floor Primer instructions before installation.

It depends on the product. Check the label, product page and Technical Data Sheet before measuring. Never carry the ratio from one POURLA formula to another.

Use the method stated for that product. Weight and volume ratios are not automatically interchangeable because Part A and Part B may have different densities.

Follow the exact product's measuring and mixing instructions. Measure accurately, mix at a controlled speed, and scrape the sides and bottom as directed. The double-cup mixing guide explains that method in more detail.

Fast mixing whips air into the batch and can still leave material on the cup walls poorly blended. Use a controlled speed and keep the mixing tool below the surface where practical.

Yes, only when you can measure the exact ratio accurately. Small errors matter more in small batches. Use graduated containers or an approved weight ratio—never estimate by eye.

Curing epoxy releases heat. Large batches, warm materials and deep containers hold more heat and shorten working time. Mix only what you can place within the stated working time.

Formula, material temperature, room temperature, batch size, container shape and application thickness all matter. Warm conditions and larger batches usually shorten working time.

Stabilize the room and materials, mix slowly, seal porous surfaces and pour within the working time. Bubbles rising from wood or concrete are often outgassing from the substrate, not just air from mixing.

Only use a heat method allowed by your specific product's instructions. Keep open flames away from flammable coatings, solvents, and surrounding materials. Check the SDS and ask our team if you're unsure.

The limit depends on the formula, project dimensions, temperature and total volume. Use the exact product page and TDS as the final specification. For planning, see the Deep-Pour Epoxy page.

Yes. Multiple lifts are often the safest way to build depth. Recoat inside the stated window; if that window closes, clean and mechanically prepare the cured surface as directed.

A line can appear when the first layer cures too far, dust settles, pigment loading changes or the two layers cure under different conditions. Consistent temperature and correct recoat timing reduce the risk.

Use additives made for epoxy and stay within the supplier's loading guidance. Too much pigment or an incompatible liquid can change viscosity, bubble release, color stability or cure. Test a small batch first.

Cure time depends on the formula, temperature, thickness, and batch size. Use the exact product's schedule for recoating, sanding, moving, and full service. A surface that feels dry may still need more curing time.

The usual causes are an incorrect ratio, the wrong measuring method, incomplete mixing, low temperature or contamination. Do not add extra hardener on top. Use the epoxy curing troubleshooting guide to diagnose the batch.

First compare the time and temperature with the product's cure schedule. If material remains liquid or unstable, contact us for product-specific guidance before removing it or applying another layer. Please avoid adding extra hardener to the surface.

Common causes include moisture, condensation, cold materials, trapped air, contamination, excessive thickness or incompatible additives. First determine whether the cloudiness is on the surface or throughout the layer.

Amine blush is a waxy or cloudy film that can form on some cured epoxy surfaces in certain conditions. Remove it by the product-approved method before sanding or recoating; sanding it into the surface can reduce adhesion.

Excess heat can come from a large batch, deep container, excessive pour depth, or warm conditions. If material is smoking or dangerously hot, stop work, keep away, and follow the SDS emergency guidance.

Typical causes are poor concrete preparation, contamination, moisture vapor, weak concrete, incompatible layers or missed recoat timing. Find the cause before repairing; another coat over a failing layer will not last.

Some formulas handle elevated temperatures better than others, but heat resistant does not mean heatproof or fireproof. Review the product's tested performance and use a product designed for the exposure, such as Ultra Heat-Resistant Epoxy.

No. Direct cookware heat can soften, mark or discolor the surface. Use a trivet or insulated pad even when the epoxy has improved heat performance.

Clear epoxy can change color with UV exposure and aging. UV stabilizers may slow the change. Check the product's indoor or outdoor limits, and follow its protection and care guidance for your intended use.

Only when the product instructions support outdoor use. Exterior surfaces see UV, moisture, movement and temperature cycling that indoor craft or countertop formulas may not be designed to handle.

No cured coating is completely scratch-proof. Use cutting boards, furniture pads and non-abrasive cleaners, and allow the coating to reach full cure before heavy use.

A properly prepared, compatible and fully cured garage-floor system can be designed for vehicle traffic. Performance depends on the slab, primer, film build, cure time, tire temperature, moisture and chemical exposure.

Epoxy often provides more working time and build. Polyaspartic generally cures faster and may offer better UV color stability, but its shorter application window requires better planning. Compare the complete floor coating options before choosing.

A common system is prepared concrete, repairs, moisture evaluation, epoxy primer, pigmented base coat, optional flakes or aggregate, and a compatible epoxy or polyaspartic top coat.

You should evaluate moisture whenever slab history or site conditions raise concern. Moisture vapor can cause pinholes, blisters and delamination, and a new top coat will not correct an active moisture problem.

Yes, when the epoxy is sound, clean, dry and compatible. Inside the approved recoat window, sanding may not be required; fully cured or glossy epoxy normally needs abrasion. See Polyaspartic Over Epoxy.

Throw flakes upward and let them fall into the wet base coat. For a full broadcast, continue until the base will not accept more material. After cure, scrape in several directions and vacuum all loose chips before top coating.

Common causes are concrete outgassing, moisture, contamination, aggressive mixing or over-rolling. Identify the defect before recoating; pinholes, blisters and fisheyes do not have the same cause. Read the garage-floor bubbling guide.

Use the published recoat window for both products. A floor that feels dry is not automatically ready. If the window has passed, mechanical abrasion and additional cleaning may be required.

Wait for the vehicle-traffic time stated for the complete system—not just foot-traffic time. Temperature, humidity and film thickness can extend the cure schedule.

Read the label and Safety Data Sheet for both resin and hardener before starting. Use the specified gloves, eye protection, clothing, and ventilation. Respiratory protection depends on the product and work conditions.

Ask our team for the exact product's documented food-contact uses before choosing resin for serving pieces or a direct food-contact surface. Follow its full-cure and care instructions, and use appropriate cutting boards or food containers.

Keep containers tightly sealed, upright and in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, freezing and excessive heat. Keep Part A and Part B tools separate to prevent cross-contamination.

Low temperatures can make some resin components cloudy or crystallized. Do not add solvent or extra hardener. Follow the product-specific restoration instructions or send support clear photos and the lot number.

Do not pour liquid resin or hardener into drains, soil or household water systems. Follow the SDS, label and local disposal rules; uncured components and fully cured epoxy may require different handling.