POURLA Epoxy & Coating System FAQs
Practical answers on product selection, coverage, mixing, curing, troubleshooting and floor coating systems.
Get the fundamentals right first.
Most failed projects trace back to product choice, surface condition, ratio accuracy or cure conditions.
Never assume that one POURLA product uses the same ratio or measuring method as another.
A clean, dry, sound and properly profiled substrate matters more than adding another coat later.
Large batches and warm conditions shorten working time and increase heat buildup.
Soft, peeling, wet or contaminated material must be corrected before another layer is applied.
Choose by the job—not the package size.
These links take you directly to the relevant product family or formula.
Art & Craft
Thin clear coatings, artwork, molds and small projects.
View Art Epoxy → PRODUCT 02Deep Pour
Thicker castings, river tables and deep voids.
View Deep-Pour Epoxy → PRODUCT 03Countertops
Countertops, bar tops and protective tabletop coatings.
View Countertop Epoxy → PRODUCT 04Floor Systems
Primer, base coat, flakes and clear top-coat systems.
View Floor Coatings → PRODUCT 05Higher Heat
Clear coatings designed for improved thermal performance.
View Heat-Resistant Epoxy →Jump straight to the answers you need.
Choose a topic below to move directly to that section.
Choosing the Right Product
Choose by application, thickness and exposure—not by kit size alone.
What types of epoxy and coatings does POURLA offer?
POURLA offers art epoxy, deep-pour epoxy, countertop coatings, heat-resistant epoxy, concrete floor primers, floor top coats, polyaspartic coatings and selected protective coatings. Start with the job you need the material to do, then check the exact product limits before buying.
Which POURLA epoxy should I use for my project?
Use Art Epoxy for crafts and thin clear coatings, Deep-Pour Epoxy for thick castings, Countertop Epoxy for counters and bar tops, and a complete floor coating system for concrete. For higher-temperature projects, review the Ultra Heat-Resistant Epoxy page.
What is the difference between art epoxy and deep-pour epoxy?
Art epoxy is made for thin pours and surface coatings. Deep-pour epoxy cures more slowly so thicker castings can release heat and bubbles safely. Do not use a coating resin at deep-pour thickness unless its instructions specifically allow it.
What is the difference between countertop epoxy and casting epoxy?
Countertop epoxy is a surface coating. Casting epoxy is designed to fill depth and volume. Their viscosity, working time, pour limit and cure schedule are different, so use the formula built for the actual application.
Do I need a separate product for an epoxy floor?
Yes. A floor is normally a system: prepared concrete, repairs, moisture evaluation, primer, base coat, decorative broadcast if used, and a compatible clear top coat. Craft and casting resins are not substitutes for a floor system.
Can POURLA help me choose a product or floor system?
Yes. Send the surface, dimensions, target thickness, indoor or outdoor use, expected exposure, working temperature and project photos through the POURLA contact page. For floors, also include concrete condition, square footage, moisture concerns and the finish you want.
Coverage & Project Planning
Measure the project first. Coverage changes with thickness, porosity and waste.
How much epoxy do I need?
Use the coverage or volume guidance on the specific product page. Allow for surface porosity, uneven thickness, edges, cracks, material left in containers and normal application loss. The POURLA calculators can help with an initial estimate.
How do I calculate epoxy for a rectangular project?
For a casting, calculate length × width × average thickness using matching units. For a coating, calculate square footage and use the product’s stated coverage rate. Irregular edges and porous materials increase real consumption.
How much material do I need for a garage floor?
Measure the actual length and width; “two-car garage” is not a reliable quantity. Include steps, stem walls, repairs, primer, base coat, flakes and top coat. Use the Epoxy Floor Calculator for planning.
Should I buy extra material?
A small allowance is sensible for waste, porosity and uneven surfaces. Do not apply an extra-heavy layer just to use the full kit; stay within the product’s coverage and thickness limits.
Surface Preparation
Most adhesion failures start below the coating, not inside it.
Why is surface preparation so important?
Epoxy bonds to the surface you give it. Dust, grease, wax, silicone, moisture, weak concrete and loose coatings can cause fisheyes, peeling or delamination even when the resin is mixed correctly.
How should I prepare wood for epoxy?
Use clean, dry, sound wood. Remove wax, oil and sanding dust; sand as required; and seal porous or end-grain areas when appropriate. Test reclaimed or oily wood before coating the full project.
How should I prepare concrete for an epoxy floor?
Remove contaminants, repair defects, mechanically profile the slab as required, evaluate moisture and vacuum all dust. Then use a compatible primer when the system calls for one. See the concrete floor primer guide for more detail.
Can I apply epoxy over an existing coating?
Only when the existing coating is firmly bonded, clean, compatible and prepared for recoating. Do not bury peeling, soft, contaminated or unknown coatings. When the history is uncertain, test adhesion or remove the old coating.
Can epoxy be applied over damp concrete?
Do not assume a slab is dry because the surface looks dry. Moisture vapor can cause bubbles, cloudiness and loss of adhesion. Evaluate the slab and use a system rated for the measured condition.
Do I need a primer before an epoxy floor coating?
Often, yes. A compatible primer can improve wetting, adhesion and coating consistency while helping seal porous concrete. The correct primer depends on the slab and the full system; review the POURLA Floor Primer instructions before installation.
Measuring & Mixing
Accuracy matters more than speed. An off-ratio batch cannot be fixed later.
What is the mixing ratio for POURLA epoxy?
It depends on the product. Check the label, product page and Technical Data Sheet before measuring. Never carry the ratio from one POURLA formula to another.
Should I measure epoxy by weight or by volume?
Use the method stated for that product. Weight and volume ratios are not automatically interchangeable because Part A and Part B may have different densities.
How should I mix epoxy?
Measure accurately, mix slowly, and scrape the sides, bottom and corners. For high-confidence mixing, transfer the batch to a second clean container and mix again. See the double-cup mixing guide.
Why should I avoid mixing too quickly?
Fast mixing whips air into the batch and can still leave material on the cup walls poorly blended. Use a controlled speed and keep the mixing tool below the surface where practical.
Can I mix a partial kit?
Yes, only when you can measure the exact ratio accurately. Small errors matter more in small batches. Use graduated containers or an approved weight ratio—never estimate by eye.
Why does mixed epoxy become hot?
Curing epoxy releases heat. Large batches, warm materials and deep containers hold more heat and shorten working time. Mix only what you can place within the stated working time.
What affects epoxy working time?
Formula, material temperature, room temperature, batch size, container shape and application thickness all matter. Warm conditions and larger batches usually shorten working time.
Pouring, Bubbles & Layers
Control temperature, porosity and layer timing before reaching for more heat.
How do I reduce bubbles in epoxy?
Stabilize the room and materials, mix slowly, seal porous surfaces and pour within the working time. Bubbles rising from wood or concrete are often outgassing from the substrate, not just air from mixing.
Can I use a torch or heat gun to remove bubbles?
Only when the product instructions allow it. Use brief, gentle passes and keep the tool moving. Too much heat can cause ripples, discoloration, smoke or premature curing.
What is the maximum pour depth?
The limit depends on the formula, project dimensions, temperature and total volume. Use the exact product page and TDS as the final specification. For planning, see the Deep-Pour Epoxy page.
Can I pour epoxy in multiple layers?
Yes. Multiple lifts are often the safest way to build depth. Recoat inside the stated window; if that window closes, clean and mechanically prepare the cured surface as directed.
Will I see a line between epoxy layers?
A line can appear when the first layer cures too far, dust settles, pigment loading changes or the two layers cure under different conditions. Consistent temperature and correct recoat timing reduce the risk.
Can I add pigments, mica, glitter or alcohol ink?
Use additives made for epoxy and stay within the supplier’s loading guidance. Too much pigment or an incompatible liquid can change viscosity, bubble release, color stability or cure. Test a small batch first.
Curing & Troubleshooting
“Dry to the touch” and “fully cured” are not the same thing.
How long does epoxy take to cure?
There is no single cure time for every formula. Temperature, thickness, batch size and airflow all affect cure. Follow the product schedule before sanding, moving, exposing to water or placing the surface into service.
Why is my epoxy still sticky or tacky?
The usual causes are an incorrect ratio, the wrong measuring method, incomplete mixing, low temperature or contamination. Do not add extra hardener on top. Use the epoxy curing troubleshooting guide to diagnose the batch.
Can uncured epoxy be fixed?
Sometimes. Slow-cured material may only need more time at the proper temperature. Liquid, unstable or contaminated epoxy must usually be removed before the surface is cleaned, prepared and recoated.
Why did my epoxy turn cloudy or milky?
Common causes include moisture, condensation, cold materials, trapped air, contamination, excessive thickness or incompatible additives. First determine whether the cloudiness is on the surface or throughout the layer.
What is epoxy amine blush?
Amine blush is a waxy or cloudy film that can form on some cured epoxy surfaces in certain conditions. Remove it by the product-approved method before sanding or recoating; sanding it into the surface can reduce adhesion.
Why did my epoxy crack, smoke or cure too quickly?
That usually points to excessive heat from a large batch, an over-depth pour, warm conditions or mixed epoxy left in a deep container. Stop using a dangerously hot batch and move away from combustible materials.
Why is my epoxy floor peeling?
Typical causes are poor concrete preparation, contamination, moisture vapor, weak concrete, incompatible layers or missed recoat timing. Find the cause before repairing; another coat over a failing layer will not last.
Heat, UV & Durability
Performance depends on the formula, full cure and the way the surface is used.
Is epoxy heat resistant?
Some formulas handle elevated temperatures better than others, but heat resistant does not mean heatproof or fireproof. Review the product’s tested performance and use a product designed for the exposure, such as Ultra Heat-Resistant Epoxy.
Can I place hot pans directly on an epoxy countertop?
No. Direct cookware heat can soften, mark or discolor the surface. Use a trivet or insulated pad even when the epoxy has improved heat performance.
Will clear epoxy turn yellow?
Any clear resin can change with long UV exposure and environmental aging. UV stabilizers may slow the change, but no clear epoxy should be treated as permanently unchanged in unlimited sunlight.
Can epoxy be used outdoors?
Only when the product instructions support outdoor use. Exterior surfaces see UV, moisture, movement and temperature cycling that indoor craft or countertop formulas may not be designed to handle.
Is epoxy scratch-proof?
No cured coating is completely scratch-proof. Use cutting boards, furniture pads and non-abrasive cleaners, and allow the coating to reach full cure before heavy use.
Can an epoxy floor handle vehicles and hot tires?
A properly prepared, compatible and fully cured garage-floor system can be designed for vehicle traffic. Performance depends on the slab, primer, film build, cure time, tire temperature, moisture and chemical exposure.
What is the difference between epoxy and polyaspartic top coats?
Epoxy often provides more working time and build. Polyaspartic generally cures faster and may offer better UV color stability, but its shorter application window requires better planning. Compare the complete floor coating options before choosing.
Floor Coating Systems
A durable floor is a sequence of compatible layers—not one universal coating.
What layers are normally used in an epoxy floor?
A common system is prepared concrete, repairs, moisture evaluation, epoxy primer, pigmented base coat, optional flakes or aggregate, and a compatible epoxy or polyaspartic top coat.
Do I need to test concrete moisture before coating?
You should evaluate moisture whenever slab history or site conditions raise concern. Moisture vapor can cause pinholes, blisters and delamination, and a new top coat will not correct an active moisture problem.
Can polyaspartic be applied over epoxy?
Yes, when the epoxy is sound, clean, dry and compatible. Inside the approved recoat window, sanding may not be required; fully cured or glossy epoxy normally needs abrasion. See Polyaspartic Over Epoxy.
How should decorative floor flakes be broadcast?
Throw flakes upward and let them fall into the wet base coat. For a full broadcast, continue until the base will not accept more material. After cure, scrape in several directions and vacuum all loose chips before top coating.
Why do epoxy garage floors develop bubbles or pinholes?
Common causes are concrete outgassing, moisture, contamination, aggressive mixing or over-rolling. Identify the defect before recoating; pinholes, blisters and fisheyes do not have the same cause. Read the garage-floor bubbling guide.
When can I apply the next floor-coating layer?
Use the published recoat window for both products. A floor that feels dry is not automatically ready. If the window has passed, mechanical abrasion and additional cleaning may be required.
When can vehicles return to a coated garage floor?
Wait for the vehicle-traffic time stated for the complete system—not just foot-traffic time. Temperature, humidity and film thickness can extend the cure schedule.
Safety & Storage
Read the current label and SDS before opening the containers.
What safety equipment should I use?
At minimum, review the product label and Safety Data Sheet. Depending on the product and work conditions, use chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, protective clothing, ventilation and appropriate respiratory protection.
Is POURLA epoxy food safe?
Do not assume a product is approved for direct food contact because it is used on a counter or serving surface. Check the documentation for the exact product and intended use, and use cutting boards and food-safe containers.
How should resin and hardener be stored?
Keep containers tightly sealed, upright and in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, freezing and excessive heat. Keep Part A and Part B tools separate to prevent cross-contamination.
Why did my resin become cloudy or crystallized in storage?
Low temperatures can make some resin components cloudy or crystallized. Do not add solvent or extra hardener. Follow the product-specific restoration instructions or send support clear photos and the lot number.
How should I dispose of leftover epoxy?
Do not pour liquid resin or hardener into drains, soil or household water systems. Follow the SDS, label and local disposal rules; uncured components and fully cured epoxy may require different handling.
Orders, Shipping & Support
Use the live policy and tracking pages for current order information.
Where does POURLA ship?
Shipping availability depends on the product, destination, carrier rules and order channel. Check the current Shipping & Delivery Policy during checkout.
How can I track my order?
Use the tracking link in your shipping confirmation email or visit Track Your Order. Have the order number and purchase email ready if you contact support.
What should I do if my order arrives damaged or leaking?
Photograph the outer box, shipping label, internal packaging, damaged container, product label and lot number. Keep the packaging and contact POURLA Support promptly with the order number.
Can I return unused epoxy?
Eligibility depends on product condition, order channel and timing. Opened, mixed, used or improperly stored material may not qualify. Review the current Return & Refund Policy before sending anything back.
Do you offer contractor or wholesale pricing?
POURLA offers purchasing options for qualified contractors, resellers and volume customers. Include company information, expected products, quantity and purchase frequency when applying through the Wholesale & Pro Program.
What information should I send for troubleshooting?
Include the product name, order number, lot number, ratio and measuring method, batch size, temperatures, application thickness, timeline, surface preparation and clear photos or video. Send the details through the contact page.
Where can I find product-specific technical information?
Use the individual product page and available technical documents for ratio, coverage, thickness, working time, recoat window, cure schedule, temperature and storage. Product-specific documentation takes priority over this general FAQ. You can also browse the Use Instructions page.
Still not sure which product you need?
Send enough information for a useful answer. A few clear details are better than a long description with no measurements.